Guides and advices to make your flower arrangements last longer at home

You are probably wondering how to make your flower arrangements last longer. Right here we bring you some guides and advice for you to put them in practice. Now you'll know if you received one of our arrangements or you are going to gift a flower basket, to tell that person that they don't need to throw their gift in a couple of days.

How to make your flower arrangements last longer

If you received Roses, Gerberas, Lilies, a Bonsai, Croton, a Ficus, or any of our products, you could search in our guides and become an expert into the taking care of indoor plants, cut flowers, orchids, and bonsais subject.

To know what guide you must follow, you only need to know what plant type you received.

  • Primary care for cut flowers: Most of the flower arrangements are in this category. Bouquets and flowers that come in a basket don't have their roots. In this guide, we tell you everything you need to know.
  • Primary care for orchids: Here's the guide that will make disappear any of your fears and myths about taking care of Orchids. In this guide, every secret comes to light!
  • Primary care for indoor plants: If your arrangement is entirely based on green plants and doesn't have flowers. It counts if your arrangement came in a pot with dirt.
  • Primary care for bonsai: Believe it or not, there are many types of bonsais. If your arrangement came with a mini plant, then this guide is for you.

Primary care for indoor plants.

Primary care for indoor plants

You can turn any flower you have received as a flower arrangement into houseplants, you have to follow these simple tips for your primary care.

Indoor plants and flowers are living beings that survive in our environment, thanks to our care. If we want to take them to our house, we have to get the idea that this isn't an ornament. Indoor plants require specialized care that is not difficult to follow once we are aware that they depend on us.

The first concept to be clear is that indoor plants are those that are always indoors. These tips are not for potted plants arranged on a balcony or courtyard.

To be an expert in primary care of indoor plants, we need to know all the aspects involved in this work like temperature, irrigation, light, humidity, fertilization, and change of the pot. All this is of the utmost importance to obtain the best result and the most durable indoor plants.

Indoor plants

Generally, caring indoor plants is almost the same; they share similar characteristics and needs.

You are going to know many caring differences and likeness between both flowers and indoor plants along with this article.

 

temperature

Temperature

Indoor plants are usually of temperate climates, that is, tropical, which is constant throughout the year. Therefore its genetics are not prepared for sudden changes, that is why it is necessary to maintain the environment of your home between 15 and 25 degrees Celsius.

IIn Winter you can keep the stove on to achieve the minimum temperature and in summer the air conditioners on so that it does not exceed the maximum temperature.

IAn indication that there is lousy temperature management are the leaves of the plants. When there is an abrupt change of cold or heat, the leaves begin to turn yellow or even fall out. This is reversible by modifying the temperature in the proposed range.

 

irrigation

Irrigation

Of all aspects, this is the deadliest of all. When the plants are indoors, they do not need constant irrigation. Indoor plants are prone to rotting and dying from excess water much faster than if the water is lacking or another aspect of those we show here.

Even the perfect dish under the pot is a danger to indoor plants. Once we water our plant, if the dish is full of water, we must immediately empty it to avoid standing water and overwatering the plant.

In summer you can increase the frequency with which the plants receive water. In most cases, it would be every 2 or 3 days. The most advisable thing is that you look at the specific needs of your plant by checking the humidity in the substrate.

You can put your finger on the ground if it comes out wet it is not necessary to water it but if it comes out dry it is time to water. In some specimen such as the orchid, you can't wait to get the substrate dry.

Most plants can be watered from above, without the water touching the flowers. If we are going to leave the house in summer or another season for a week or more, we can use the ice trick. Let it melt little by little on the surface of the substrate.

 

the light

The light

Lack of light is the second cause for which flowers live for a short time. A recipe for disaster would be a plant receiving excess water and minimal lighting. Photosynthesis is essential for flowers, especially during the flowering season, which is when they need lighting the most.

Poor lighting forces them to develop a much longer stem, directed towards the low light they can receive. They can also develop much more full sheets to cover the most significant area at the same time possible. These disproportions cause the plant to lose much energy, and flowering is affected.

If you want to leave the flower in the same place for long periods, and you don't want to move the pot at least a few hours a day to the sun, then we can guide according to the season and the cardinal point. The sun always comes out by the east and is hidden by the west, knowing this, we can play with the incidence of the sun on the plants:

North: Indoor plants prefer indirect light and in the north orientation all year round the incidence of the sun is indirect. Although it seems intuitive that this is ideal, it is not. It would be only in summer when the incidence is much stronger. It is required more than indirect light when the plants are inside our home.

South: In this orientation all year, we would have direct light. When a plant is under a roof, we usually place it near a window, and it usually has curtains. In reality, it would not be receiving direct light, but it would have enough intensity to take what it needs. So directing our plants to the north is the ideal point.

East: If your plant can only receive sun for a few hours a day and then prefers darkness, place it east or west. In the case of the east, the sun comes only in the morning. The intensity of the light in the mornings is much dimmer, flowers whose petals are delicate can be placed without fear in this orientation.

West: West-facing plants receive the most active sun and only in the afternoon. Plants with robust flowers such as Lilies can withstand this type of lighting without problems.

 

humidity

Humidity

As we understand the behavior and origin of plants, more coherent and straightforward care is given to us. We had already mentioned that houseplants are mostly plants that come from the tropics. Tropics usually have a humid environment. Humidity is what we have to simulate so that our feel at ease.

There are several tricks to maintain the adequate humidity of our plants:

  • Spray with distilled water only the leaves, never the flowers. The frequency is dictated by the humidity or dryness of your home. If you live in a dry environment and it's summer, you might want to spray every day. Otherwise, if you don't see it necessary, you don't need to spray.
  • Place a plate with pebbles and water under the pot, taking care that the water does not touch the pot, for this the gravel protects around the pot. The water evaporates, creating a humid environment.
  • Place several plants together. Among them enhance the humidity level.

Especially the time we turn on our heaters is when we have to take care of the humidity of our indoor plants.

 

fertilization

Fertilization

Each plant is different, and each one needs different nutrients. It's advisable to locate the type of soil that best suits your plant, so its fertilizer.

There are several types of fertilizer: there are liquids, in pebbles and powder. If you don't know what fertilizer your plant needs, you can be guided by whether it is all green or if it has flowers. There is fertilizer for each type.

is vital to artificially feed the plants to ensure their complete development and health. The soil inside the pot is an environment created by us. It isn't fed back once the plant has taken all the nutrients from it.

Though it's recommended to keep the plants fertilized all year, we can space the bond intake a little more in Winter. Some plants are in sleeping mode and don't absorb or need much energy. In some cases, it could even be to receive subscription at that time of the year.

 

the pot change

The Pot Change

All living beings have the fundamental characteristic of continuing to grow and expand over time. Indoor plants are no exception. It is highly recommended to change the plant when bringing it home. These are usually planted in moss with few nutrients that usually dry very quickly, which makes it difficult for us to care.

Another reason to change the pot when you get home is to place the right substrate to continue its development. The roots of our new flower want to expand, and the pots in which they come are usually tiny for that purpose.

Some plants rather need very little space to develop and do not like not being contained as they grow. On the other hand, if we bring the plant in Winter, we could wait for it to acclimatize a little to our home to transplant, even a few months and not immediately as we could do it at any other time of the year.

Once we have 1 year with our plant, it would be good to check if the pot we put when bringing it home is enough or if its roots need more space to grow.

With these tips, this beautiful moment of receiving or sending flowers won't last just a few days. Now you can turn your floral arrangements into houseplants. You already have all the tools!

One of our spectacular Bonsai came home, and you don't know what to do to keep it. With these basic Bonsai cares you can breathe easy since you will know all the secrets and techniques to keep that Bonsai alive for a longer time.

bonsai

What is Bonsai?

First of all, you have to know that Bonsai is not a flower or an indoor plant. Bonsai is a small tree which, through millenary techniques from China, slowed physical growth, but all the other characteristics of a tree remained intact.

Textually Bonsai means: "Tree on a tray" in Japanese, and that is what it is. If you look, they are always in a flat container, instead of a deep pot like an ordinary plant. Its roots behave like those of a tree, expand sideways. This is why their transplant is so necessary.

Bonsai Differences

Another point to consider when you receive your Bonsai is to investigate what type of tree has shrunk for you. To be a Bonsai that stays inside your house, Bonsai must be a tropical tree and not a climate tree with the 4 seasons.

tropical tree Tropical Tree: In the tropics and center of the earth, that is, part of South America, Central America, Africa, and Australia, the climate is divided into periods of drought and periods of rain. There are no seasons, and the same temperate climate is maintained throughout the year, ranging from 64 to 90 degrees fahrenheit. Some times have exceptions but only oscillates at most 5 degrees up or down.

The climate is the same climate that we usually keep inside our homes. Since with heating, air conditioners, and other appliances, we manage to be as comfortable as possible in our homes throughout the year.

If your tree is tropical, your Bonsai belongs to the interior of your home.

seasons tree 4 seasons tree:. Just like any tree we have in a country that is not on the hot strip, it goes through the different processes that the seasons entail. Its leaves fall, rest, sleep, and bloom again.

For these small trees, it is essential to be able to spend their hibernation season to regain energy and start their new cycle. Inside the house, we would have to drastically lower the temperature and limit sun exposure to achieve a climate suitable for hibernation. This climate would not be compatible with our human lifestyle.

It is much simpler if we live in a climate with 4 seasons, take out the Bonsai from home and enjoy its natural changes throughout the 12 months.

If your tree is 4 seasons, your Bonsai belongs to your patio or balcony.

Basic Bonsai Care

Once we have established where to put your Bonsai, we now learn the other half of what a mini tree requires to survive years. Like a huge tree.

irrigation

Irrigation:Three-quarters of our planet is made up of water, and in fact, the land space also has water flows below. Trees through their roots drink perennial water thanks to these underground currents.

As you just guessed, irrigation is essential for a bonsai. Depending on its substrate or soil and components of the soil of your Bonsai, its irrigation is more frequent.

If you observe nature, it does not rain at 100% predictable cycles, several factors come together and accommodate the rain. With these small trees, you have to play to be mother nature. The irrigation cannot be routine. First, you have to observe your Bonsai a lot, and they will tell you when it needs to be watered.

What you have to observe is the dryness of the soil; it must never become dry; it must be kept moist all the time. This can happen twice a day or once a day or every other day: observation.

.

The other thing to observe is the yellowing of its leaves; this is a double observation because it could be asking besides water, sun. Then observe how the incidence of the sun is in that place if you already made sure that the dirt is wet. Not always when the moist soil is superficially visible, it is an indication that the tree is drinking the water it needs.

substrate Substrate: On this trip to the care of your Bonsai, we will always ask you to see it in macro: the nature and development of a regular and ordinary tree. The same thing happens to Bonsai, only in miniature, and your role is being a direct assistant to Mother Nature.

For a particular tree species to grow and stay alive, the land on which it grows has to provide everything it needs. Naturally, neighbor trees usually have the same requirements, so the species vary from region to region.

Although there are millions of possible combinations of components for each tree, the good news is that this culture has millennia among us humans. Over the centuries the substrate formula that works for almost any type of tree has been perfected..

In stores, they sell this standard mixture at once, no need to worry. It is a little more expensive than buying the components separately. First, while watching the watering, it is ideal for getting to know your tree.



the substrate of Experts The substrate of Experts: If you want to go to more personalized treatment of the substrate, we explain the formula and like everything in your Bonsai: observe the quantities according to your tree.

The three Gs of a successful substrate for any Bonsai are Good Drainage, Good Water Retention, and Good Oxygenation.



  • Good Drainage: The same substrate regulates excess water. The mixture of its components needs to be perfect, so it knows when to say goodbye to the water it doesn’t need. If there is more water inside the Bonsai container, it removes oxygenation from the roots; there will be an excess of sodium and also start to rot from the bottom up.

  • Good Water Retention:Yes, excess water is deadly and lack of water too. The substrate must keep the water traffic at a rate that the roots can drink and keep it moist all the time.

  • Good Oxygenation: A fundamental component within the substrate is the perfect size of some of its components. If we play with the different particle sizes, it is most likely that in specific places, holes or mini air chambers are generated. This is important as it allows the roots to take oxygen and in turn can have and protect the bacteria and microorganisms that make food metabolism possible. This process makes it easier to absorb nutrients and thus be able to transport to the leaves everything they need to have healthy photosynthesis.

Todos los sustratos tienen 4 componentes que mezclados correctamente nos llevan a obtener las 3 B de los sustratos. Estos son el compuesto orgánico, la akadama, la piedra volcánica y el pomice.

  • Akadama: It is a baked clay presented as mini rocks. It degrades regularly, so it is advisable to replenish, as it compromises drainage and oxygenation because it becomes dust. Of all the ingredients, this is the most expensive. Some people have been able to replace it with cooked and granulated clay from their area. Others who have been more daring have obtained successful results with cat sand. It is already at personal discretion and your experience.

  • Volcanic Stone: It is responsible for water retention, and it is one of the components that keep the entire mixture structured. We have to keep in mind that where there is volcanic stone, roots can not develop, so you have to play with its location.

  • Pumice:They are the pebbles that we always see in Bonsai arrangements. They are usually the first layer below and above since these are responsible for allowing water to drain. It also has a significant role in oxygenation.

  • Organic Compound: It is the dirt we usually buy for all our other plants. The one that comes especially for Bonsai usually contains moss and pearls. By itself, it does not drain, or oxygen, it only nourishes.

The proportion of the recommended substrate is ¼ of akadama, ½ of pumice and ½ of volcanic rock. The compost, the amount necessary for the other three elements to live and fit the tray.

fertilizing Fertilizing: It is not the same to give a suitable substrate for the tree to live than the food we are going to serve. The fertilizer is the food of our Bonsai, and we must give it regularly.

In development periods, which is from spring to late autumn, it is time for fertilization. In winter you should not feed. Our trees are asleep.

When our Bonsai arrives home or after the time we transplant it, it shouldn’t be fertilized immediately. We must wait at least one month to feed it. The same happens if our tree gets sick. We should only supply medicine if this is the case or wait for it to heal naturally.

The three essential components of the fertilizer are: Nitrogen (N) helps the stems and leaves grow and develop correctly. The Phosphorus (P) does the same with the roots. The Potassium (K) is responsible for the flowers, and the fruits. We have to take care of their proportion according to the case and period. We will call this proportion NPK.



The recommended proportions, according to the season or stage of development of the Bonsai are the following:
  • Spring:This is the initial development stage after a long period of hibernation. Nitrogen must prevail. The recommended formula for this stage is NPK 12: 6: 6.
  • Summer: EIt is the most stable period of the tree; it is where it takes full advantage of all the components in a balanced way. His formula: NPK 10:10:10/li>
  • Autumn:We have to prepare our tree for winter, strengthening its roots and fruits that usually are the most vulnerable part. The formula for autumn is NPK 3:10:10.


transplanted Transplanted:Trees are continually developing, Bonsai has only been delayed in growth size, but like every tree, the best thing to know is to grow. If we limit this, the tree will die.

The roots of our tree have already taken up as much space as possible in its container, and there is no room for the substrate. It is time to transplant our Bonsai to a larger tray.


As always, everything is an observation of our tree. Some will ask for their transplant in a year, another in two years and some up to 3 or 5 years. So that it does not take you by surprise, you could study a little about the type of tree you have in your care. .

One way to realize that the substrate is no longer fulfilling its work is that we see that it retains zero amount of water. If we already know that it is not a lack of volcanic rock, we can lift our tree a little and remove it from its flat pot. If we only see roots, we must transplant.


You already have all the expertise to take care of your Bonsai. As always everything is a matter of information and here you got everything you need to know how to keep that beautiful Bonsai that you received from the hand of PremiumFlorist.


orchids

One of our fabulous orchids has arrived at your home, you always loved them but you were afraid to have one because of the endless myths that exist around the orchid. Some of them are: they are difficult to care and maintain, only people with a lot of free time can have this type of flower or that you have to be an expert in orchids to own them.

Everything you read before is not true, except that it is for experts. When you finish reading this Guide of secrets for Orchid Care, you will be an expert of Orchids by making your flowers give their best.

Most of the domesticated Orchids are the Phalaenopsis, this guide is going to be dedicated to this species of Orchid, since it is the number one in popularity around the world.

Phalaenopsis Orchids

Orchids, like the vast majority of indoor plants, are of tropical origin. They are originally from Taiwan, Australia and the Philippines, which implies that they grow in a humid climate with mild temperatures and long periods of rain and drought.

Another characteristic of this type of flower is that they are Epiphytes, which means that they live on the trunks of other trees and their roots are not in the ground, but exposed to the sun.

 

the light

The light

Due to their quality of being epiphytes, Orchids have developed the ability to photosynthesize even with their roots to take advantage of all indirect light. They developed this ability to take advantage of the little light that was allowed to filter the dense treetops in their natural habitat.

It is ideal that the Orchids constantly receive indirect light. If we are going to place them in front of a window, it is advisable that the window is pointing south, since the sun is indirect all year round.

On the other hand, if we are going to place our Orchid in the center of a living room or away from the window, the ideal is that the window of that room is pointing north since direct light enters the whole year, which is filtered by the distance, curtains and other decorative accessories.

The Orchids guide you by changing color according to the amount of sun they are receiving:

  • When they get the right amount of sun, their leaves are shiny and beautiful.
  • If they are receiving a lot of light , the leaves tend to turn red or orange.
  • On the other hand, if they lack sunlight, they turn dull dark green.
  • Unfortunately, if we see small black spots on its leaves, the damage from excessive sun exposure is irreversible.

Professional Secret
If the place where your Orchid is going to be has very little light, do not despair! A great solution is to transplant the orchid into a transparent container so it can absorb sunlight even with the help of its roots.

 

temperature

Temperature

Orchids develop naturally when they live in a temperature between 16 and 28 degrees Celsius. It means a temperate climate. Nights always have to be colder.

If we notice that it will be a hot night, the Orchids must be moved to the coldest place in the house, since they grow continuously in heat which represents a significant waste of energy and compromises their later flowering.

In addition to maintaining a warm temperature, it is important to place them where there are drafts. Air currents prevent the proliferation of pests, parasites or insects that are the number one cause of disease in Orchids and other indoor plants.

Professional Secret
When the Orchid returns to the flowering phase, so that the flowers develop much prettier, stronger and with the plus that more than one flower sprouts per stem, we recommend you move your Orchid to a place where the night temperature ranges between 13 and 15 degrees Celsius. This process usually takes about 3 weeks and can occur in Autumn or Spring.

 

irrigation and humidity

Irrigation and Humidity

Irrigation can be spaced up to 10 days. It is even advisable to let the soil dry completely. In its natural habitat, there are periods of drought and rain. Orchids should experience their habitat a little, so it would be ideal to allow its roots to feel drought from time to time and when you water them, it should be abundant.

This type of flower is epiphyte, it means that its roots are not found underground, so it is not used to absorbing groundwater all the time. They only take the water that runs through the trunks of the trees and have the ability to retain it in their roots.

Another reason why the dry period is recommended is because they are very prone to being attacked by fungus and doing this prevents their proliferation.

If you notice that the Orchids have their flowers very low, we recommend watering them from the bottom of the pot, using a plate to absorb a little liquid, without exaggerating. This does not usually happen since all our Orchids are presented with rods and mini hooks to keep them always upright.

Humidity is a fundamental characteristic in a temperate climate. There are several tricks to maintain adequate humidity in our plants:

  • Spray with distilled water only the leaves, never the flowers. The frequency will be dictated by the humidity or dryness of your home. If you live in a dry environment and it's summer, you might want to spray every day. Otherwise, if you don't see it necessary, you don't need to spray.
  • Place a plate with pebbles and water under the pot, taking care that the water does not touch the pot, for this the gravel protects around the pot. The water will evaporate, creating a humid environment.

Professional Secret
The ideal humidity to keep Orchids is 60%. There are measurement tools such as the Hygrometer that could be your ally when it comes to measuring the humidity in the environment around your Orchids. Excess moisture is a breeding ground for fungus. The lack of it affects the petals of their flowers.

 

fertilization

Fertilization

Orchids do not feed on the ground, that is why we must provide their food month by month. Like all flowers and plants in general, the three essential components to feed our Orchids are Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium.

Nitrogen will help the growth of leaves and branches. The Phosphorus enhances the roots, while the Potassium gives the correct development to the flowers.

When the Orchid is in its growth phase without flowers, it is recommended to place more Nitrogen than the rest of the elements. When the flowering period begins, the formula changes completely, increasing the Potassium, placing half the amount of phosphorus and adding a small amount of Nitrogen.

The rest of the year, the quantity of the three elements must be balanced. It is recommended to do fertilization once a month.

Professional Secret
For a very nutritious fertilization, it is recommended to immerse the pot (without touching the union of the leaves and flowers), in water with the liquid fertilizer for 10 minutes. This will perfectly simulate the moment when Orchids take their food from tree trunks in the rain.

 

transplanting

Transplanting

The transplant process can wait from 2 to 3 years. Unlike other plants, it is not necessary to look for a larger pot, since the roots of the Orchid remain outside the substrate or soil. Transplanting is done only to change the substrate.

For a successful transplant, we advise you to follow the following steps::

  • Immerse the pot in water, cover it and not touch the leaves and flowers. This will make the roots flexible and thus prevent them from breaking when removed from the pot.
  • Check carefully the roots of our Orchid once it is out of the pot. Remove those that are dry, have fungus or a very dark color. It is important not to tear them off, but to cut them with sharp scissors previously disinfected.
  • Place the new substrate, never reuse it in the new pot. This has to be special for Orchids that is airy to give space and mobility to its roots. Leave some roots unburied, protruding above the substrate.
  • Do not water after transplanting, since the roots have enough water from when we submerge them in water. Protect your Orchid from all rays of the sun for a few days. Even if it has water inside its body, you still have to keep it in a humid environment with a vaporizer. Wait at least a month to start the fertilization.

Professional Secret
Propolis for plants, which is diluted in alcohol, is a fabulous bactericide that allows us to be calm throughout the transplanting process. Not only it kills bacteria, it is also anesthetic and healing, giving the roots a complete treatment when changing pot. A few drops should be placed in the water in which we are going to immerse the roots.

You did it! You have graduated as a professional expert in Orchids, follow these secrets for their care and your Orchids will be with you for years.

this summary is about the special care of orchids

This summary is about the special care of orchids, we highly recommend you reading the entire article to find the explanation of the importance of these cares:

Specific Tips for Orchids
Temperature: Temperate from 16 to 28 degrees Celsius. Preferably with constant air currents.
Irrigation: Every 10 days approximately. Water without touching the flowers or leaves, if the flowers are very close to the ground, moisten from below with a plate full of water. The frequency of watering may vary by season. Let the soil dry completely and then water again.
Light: Be careful that the sun's rays do not indirectly affect the Orchid. It is recommended to place them near windows that point to the East or South.
Humidity: They love humidity, but not excess. Maintain moderate humidity in the environment by spraying water on the stem and leaves, never on the flowers.
Fertilization: Balanced all year round. In the flowering season, increase their fertilizer intake to once a month.
Transplanting: Every two years, avoiding fertilizing the soil and using aerated substrates.

flowers

This guide talks about those primary care for cut flowers. When this arrangement arrives home, we wish it lasts forever. Although this is biologically impossible, we can help you to extend the life of your flowers with some practical tips.

You may have probably received Roses, Gerberas, Lilies, Orchids or a mix of them. Except for some details from every species, the cares are very similar. Here we reveal tricks and secrets for you to become an expert in the art of taking care of cut flowers.

Cut Flowers

It is prudent that before entering the care of these beautiful flowers, we know a little more about them. Their origin, lasting, and composition is going to help a lot to us at the time of understanding their needs.

 

roses

Roses

Having more than 100 types, the rose is far the most wanted flower. Number one in sales worldwide. Its fame is so big that it is the symbol of romantic love.

They come mostly from Asia. Thanks to its fame we can also see replicas in Europe, North America, and Africa. With years passing and since the twentieth century, more and more hybrids have emerged among its 100 species, which so far results in some 30,000 cultivars (or subcategories) of Roses worldwide.

You likely receive very fragrant Roses, and it is excellent that you know that you received a rose directly from a parent species. Original roses are much larger, with more color but very little smell.

Care for cut roses

bouquet If they arrive by Bouquet:

The Cut: You should trim at least 2 cm from their stem, removing any part that could be beginning to damage. The cut must be transverse to increase the water absorption surface. You should also remove any leaf that would remain underwater. It is better to take out leaves than to put little water on it. This process should be repeated every time the vase water is changed..

The vase: It can be curvy and thin. The water inside the vase will stabilize the entire floral arrangement. We must be careful when choosing the surface of placing; this shouldn't be in the middle of the air current. We can avoid spills and the mistreatment of the petals of our Roses.

Water: Fill the vase with water at room temperature, if possible filtered and very clean. Even check the vase that does not have traces of dust since the minimum pollution reduces life to our flowers. Take care that there is no leaf in contact with the water and much less under it, this accelerates the process of water contamination. Change the water every day; the Roses are very delicate. You should always wash the vase or vase every time we change the water.

Preservatives: Experts prefer to call it "food for Roses." They exist in the commercial type and the homemade type. The formula that food has is always the same: a component that kills bacteria, another that provides acidity and the last component is some sugar.

flowers in a vase If they arrive in a vase


The Cut:You should trim at least 2 cm from their stem, removing any part that could be beginning to damage. The cut must be transverse to increase the water absorption surface. You should also remove any leaf that would remain underwater. It is better to take out leaves than to put little water on it. This process should be repeated every time the vase water is changed.

Water:Roses love water, and these absorb it copiously. This is why they are so delicate since any bacteria or dust they ingest can shorten their lifetime. Unlike other flowers, roses must be changed daily. Every time this change is made, the vase must be thoroughly washed, not just rinsed and filled again.

Preservatives:mixtures already made in both powder and liquid that are concentrated to place in vase's water. Each time the water is changed, preservative should be added in the proportion as indicated by the product. There are natural alternatives, such as two droplets of chlorine to kill the bacteria plus a spoonful of regular sugar to feed the plants. Also, an acidifying source, since the Roses develop better in an acidic pH, this can be achieved with two droplets of Lemon and even an aspirin. All three components must be in the mixture.

flowers with sponges If they arrive with Sponges:


The Cut:The stems of the Roses are usually embedded within the sponge. Removing the stem several times would do more harm than good, so if you get an arrangement with a sponge, it is advisable not to remove them to cut. It is designed to skip this step.

Water:The sponge always has to be wet, never soaked, since this does not do well to the stems, and these could rot, shortening life to our beautiful flower. A good practice is to touch the sponge and check if it is wet directly. Depending on the weather and the season you can water a day for half or two.

Preservatives: The sponges have preservatives inside the materials that were made. These preservatives are usually enough for our flowers to feed until the end.

Professional Trick:
Here in PremiumFlorist we want you to know every detail about the care of this wonderful flower. That’s why we elaborated a complete guide with tips and expert secrets for your roses to last longer.

 
 

lilies

Lilies

Its scientific name is Lilium. Other names he receives is Azucena or Lilies. There are more than 100 types of Liliums. Its origin covers several continents: Europe, Asia, and America since they have the countries that have territory in the tropical zone.

Knowing this is essential since Lilies do not like sudden temperature changes at all and can receive direct sun for their metabolic process. It blooms only once per season. Its ability to absorb carbon dioxide is superior to any other flower. What makes it excellent to decorate our interior.

Due to its beautiful appearance and intense colors, it is one of the 5 best-selling flowers worldwide and is ideal to accompany other flowers, fused uniquely without losing prominence and at the same time without dulling their companions.

If you received some Lilies, we congratulate you, here you are going to learn how to prolong their life in your home as much as possible. Follow these excellent tips from expert hands, and nothing can go wrong.

Care of cut Lilies

flowers by bouquet If they arrive by Bouquet:

The Cut:The first thing that you need to do with a cut flower is to reduce at least 2 cm of its stem. Remove any part that could be beginning to damage. The cut must be transverse to increase the water absorption surface. This process should be repeated every time the vase water is changed.

The Vase:To extend their life, the choice of the size of the vase is a fundamental point. Its base must be significant to weigh the weight of its flowers and avoid overturns that could damage the flower when falling. The surface shouldn't be in the middle of an air stream.

Water:Fill the vase with water at room temperature, if possible filtered and very clean. Check that the vase doesn't have traces of dust since the minimum pollution reduces life to our flowers. Take care that there is no leaf in contact with the water and much less under it, this accelerates the process of water contamination. Change the water every two days, always washing the vase or vase every time.

Preservatives:Mixtures already made in both powder and liquid that are concentrated to place in vase's water. Each time the water is changed, preservative should be added in the proportion as indicated by the product. There are natural alternatives, such as two droplets of chlorine to kill bacteria plus a tablespoon of regular sugar to feed the plants.

lilies by vase If they arrive in a vase


The Cut: After admiring the flowers for a few hours, it is convenient that before sleep, we take them out of the vase. Also, cut about 2 cm diagonally to maximize the water absorption surface. This step must be repeated every time we change the water.

The Vase: You don't have to choose a vase, the one you bring is the right one for our flowers. Once we cut the stems, we remove all the water from the vase, we wash it very well and fill it again with clean and potable water.

Water: We have to take care to fill only up to the height below the first leaf of the stem. You should never immerse any leaf underwater. This accelerates the contamination of it. Water always has to be clean if we want our flower to last longer. Every two days, it's advisable to start the entire process of cutting and changing the water.

Preservatives:mixtures already made in both powder and liquid that are concentrated to place in vase's water. Each time the water is changed, preservative should be added in the proportion as indicated by the product. There are natural alternatives, such as two droplets of chlorine to kill bacteria plus a tablespoon of regular sugar to feed the plants.

flowers with sponges If they arrive with Sponges:


The Cut: The flower stalks are usually embedded within the sponge. Removing the stem several times would do more harm than good, so if you get an arrangement with a sponge, it is advisable not to remove them to cut. It is designed to skip this step.

Water: The sponge has to be always wet, never soaked, since this does not do well to the stems, and these could rot, shortening life to our beautiful flower. A good practice is to touch the sponge and check if it is wet directly. Depending on the weather and the season it can be watered every 2 or 3 days.

Preservatives: The sponges have preservatives inside the materials that were made. These preservatives are usually enough for our flowers to feed until the end.

Professional Trick:
Lilies pollen could stain. If for some reason your tablecloth or clothes are affected by Lilies pollen, we recommend you to remove it with adhesive tape and not with water, because in that way the stain will get worse.

 
 

gerberas

Gerberas

Gerberas are native from southern Africa. They are very resistant flowers and last long after cutting if we give them the special care they deserve. At the end of the 20th century, they were introduced off African lands.

Today it is one of the ideal flowers to accompany a complete floral arrangement. Its wide variety of colors makes it the perfect complement to any other flower. It is no accident that throughout Europe and recently in America it is an indispensable piece in the international florist.

Its colors are warm and range from deep red to yellow, through pink to orange. Because of its considerable resemblance to the marguerites, in some countries, it is known as the African marguerite or the Transvaal daisy, which is a South African province.

It is very feasible that your Bouquet or flower arrangement contains some Gerbera. The good news is that it is so low maintenance that you can live with the care you give to your other more delicate companions.

Care of cut Gerberas

gerberas by bouquet If they arrive by Bouquet:

The Cut:The first thing that you need to do with a cut flower is to reduce at least 2 cm of its stem. Remove any part that could be beginning to damage. The cut must be transverse to increase the water absorption surface. This process should be repeated every time the vase water is changed.

The Vase: In the case of Gerberas, we have to take care of leaving them room to oxygenate underwater. A common mistake is to want to preserve them all, and then their life is reduced by lack of oxygen.

Water: Fill the vase with water at room temperature, if possible filtered and very clean. Check that the vase doesn't have traces of dust since the minimum pollution reduces life to our flowers. Take care that there is no leaf in contact with the water and much less under it, this accelerates the process of water contamination. Change the water every three days, always washing the vase. Take care that if any Gerbera petal falls into the water, remove it immediately.

Preservatives: Mixtures already made in both powder and liquid that are concentrated to place in vase's water. Each time the water is changed, preservative should be added in the proportion as indicated by the product. There are natural alternatives, such as two droplets of chlorine to kill bacteria plus a tablespoon of regular sugar to feed the plants.

gerberas in a vase If they arrive in a vase


The Cut: We do not go to bed without taking them out of the vase, and we cut about 2 cm diagonally to maximize the water absorption surface. This step must be repeated every time we change the water.

The Vase: You don't have to choose a vase, the one you bring is the right one for our flowers. Once we cut the stems, we remove all the water from the vase, we wash it very well and fill it again with clean and potable water. If possible, distribute the Gerberas in a way that they don't saturate each other as not to hinder their oxygenation.

Water: We have to take care to fill only up to the height below the first leaf or eliminate any leaf that doesn't allow us to fill the vase with water. You should never immerse any leaf underwater. Leafs accelerates the contamination of water. Water always has to be clean if we want our flower to last longer. Every three days, it is advisable to start the entire process of cutting and changing the water. Take care that if any Gerbera petal falls into the water, remove it immediately.

. Preservatives: Mixtures already made in both powder and liquid that are concentrated to place in the vase's water. Each time the water is changed, preservative should be added in the proportion as indicated by the product. There are natural alternatives, such as two droplets of chlorine to kill bacteria plus a tablespoon of regular sugar to feed the plants.

gerberas with sponges If they arrive with Sponges:


The Cut: The stems of the Gerberas are usually fitted inside the sponge. Removing the stem several times would do more harm than good, so if you get an arrangement with a sponge, it is advisable not to remove them to cut. It is designed to skip this step.

The sponge always has to be wet, never soaked, since this does not do well to the stems, and these could rot, shortening life to our beautiful flower. A good practice is to touch the sponge and check if it is wet directly. Depending on the weather and the season it can be watered every 3 or 4 days.

Preservatives: The sponges have preservatives inside the materials that were made. These preservatives are usually enough for our flowers to feed until the end and are rigorously balanced for each floral species.

Professional Trick:
The Gerbera is one of the flowers that can receive direct sunlight without being damaged because of its natural habitat it’s most likely to receive sun, as long as the ambient temperature is around 20 to 25 degrees.



In general, cut flowers have the same care; it only varies a little from flower to flower. We invite you to dare to go beyond from just seeing your gift a few hours. Take care of the floral arrangement you received and extend your life much more.

These are the primary care for cut flowers. You already received that beautiful flower arrangement, and thanks to your curiosity you also know now how to maximize the duration of your Lilies, Roses, and Gerberas.

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